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00:00:00 – 00:20:19
The video provides an in-depth exploration of the science of vitamin C for skin health and benefits. Various forms of vitamin C, such as L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbal phosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and tetrahexal desolate ascorbate (THD), are discussed for their properties, stability, and effects on the skin. Recommendations are made for different vitamin C serums and products, emphasizing optimal concentrations and formulations for various skin types. The importance of proper storage, pH levels, and stability of vitamin C products is highlighted, alongside the impact of oxidation on their effectiveness. The speakers also caution against using multiple hyaluronic acid products in a routine and offer suggestions for effective skincare routines and product choices based on individual skin needs. Overall, the video aims to educate viewers on selecting and using vitamin C products effectively for skin brightening, collagen production, and overall skin health.
00:00:00
In this segment of the video, Dr. Shireen Idris discusses the science of vitamin C, emphasizing its benefits for the skin. She explains that vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps protect against free radical damage and premature aging effects like collagen breakdown and discoloration. Vitamin C also enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen and is crucial for collagen production. Additionally, it aids in evening out skin tone by regulating copper levels to prevent hyperpigmentation.
00:03:00
In this segment of the video, the importance of vitamin C for pigmentation and skin benefits is discussed. The active form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid, is highlighted as the most effective but can be unstable and irritating for some people. It is emphasized that higher concentrations of vitamin C do not necessarily mean better results, with 3 to 5 percent being effective. The issue of oxidation causing vitamin C products to darken over time is mentioned, reducing their effectiveness. Additionally, the use of dropper packaging for vitamin C products is criticized, as exposure to light and air can affect the product’s stability.
00:06:00
In this segment of the video, the speaker discusses the importance of properly storing and using vitamin C products, particularly l-ascorbic acid. They highlight that exposure to oxygen can cause oxidation, leading to breakdown of the active form of vitamin C. The speaker mentions the need for l-ascorbic acid to be formulated at a pH of 3.5 or below for optimal absorption, but notes that this acidic pH may be irritating for some individuals. The speaker advises that l-ascorbic acid is suitable for most skin types at concentrations between 10% and 15%, but may be too irritating for oily, acne-prone skin at higher concentrations. They recommend certain products, such as SkinCeuticals and Paula’s Choice, for their effectiveness in stabilizing vitamin C.
00:09:00
In this segment of the video, the speaker discusses a skincare product containing vitamin E, prolic acid, and hyaluronic acid. They advise against using multiple products with hyaluronic acid in a routine and suggest starting with a 10% L-ascorbic acid serum. They also mention Cerave’s vitamin C serum which contains ascorbic acid, panthenol, ceramides, and HA. The speaker then goes on to explain the benefits of sodium ascorbal phosphate (SAP) as an inactive form of vitamin C, highlighting its stability, potential effects on oily or acne-prone skin, and photoprotective properties.
00:12:00
In this segment of the video, the speaker discusses different vitamin C serums and their properties. U Beauty’s resurfacing compound is mentioned for collagen production, best used at night to prevent sun sensitivity. Mad Hippie is a stable vitamin C serum with added ingredients like vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, priced at $33. Number seven protect and perfect intense Advanced serum is a good drugstore option for acne-prone skin with collagen-boosting peptide. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a stable form of vitamin C but poorly absorbed, while Glossier’s super glow vitamin C contains MAP and magnesium, serving as a less effective option for vitamin C.
00:15:00
In this segment of the video, the speaker discusses tetrahexal desolate ascorbate (THD), a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is stable at a pH of around five and has great absorption. THD has antioxidant properties, collagen benefits, and helps with pigmentation and skin brightening effects. It is suitable for all skin types, especially for brightening and evening out skin tone. The speaker recommends their own product, Pillow Talk, containing THD along with ceramides and peptides. Other recommended products include a serum by Dr. Loretta and Sunday Riley’s CEO vitamin C brightening serum. The video also mentions a product combining ascorbal glucoside and 3-0 ethyl ascorbate forms of vitamin C, suitable for those looking for collagen and brightening effects in a lightweight serum.
00:18:00
In this segment of the video, various forms of vitamin C derivatives for skincare are discussed. Ascorbic glucoside, a collagen booster, is recommended as a serum for enhancing skin but not deeply hydrating. Next, corvo palmitate, a stable form similar to ascorbic acid, is deemed less effective with limited proven benefits. Lastly, immunopropyl ascorbal phosphate (AAP) is highlighted as a stable form with potential skin benefits, although more research is needed. A specific product containing AAP is mentioned, but its effectiveness is uncertain due to lack of extensive studies. The video concludes by discussing which vitamin C derivative may suit various skin types and advises caution for those with sensitive skin.