The summary of ‘Chemistry of Perms Vs. Relaxers Review’

The video features Teresa Muley, an education consultant with expertise in cosmetology teaching and the hair industry, discussing the chemical processes of perms and relaxers. Key points include the structure of keratin protein, bonds like disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds, and the processes of perming and relaxing hair. The importance of pH balance, avoiding damage from overlapping treatments, and the fragile nature of hair post-chemical processes are emphasized. Essential names and terms include Teresa Muley, keratin protein, disulfide bonds, perms, relaxers, pH balance, and amino acids. The video concludes by advising caution in chemical treatments to prevent damage.

00:00:00

In this segment of the video, the speaker, Teresa Muley, introduces herself as an education consultant with extensive experience in cosmetology teaching and the hair industry. She emphasizes the importance of understanding the chemical processes of perms and relaxers, highlighting that they involve manipulating the same proteins but behave differently. Teresa stresses the significance of comprehending these processes to avoid damaging hair and emphasizes that this knowledge is essential beyond just passing state board exams. She notes that both perms and relaxers work on keratin protein in the hair, setting the foundation for further discussion on the topic.

00:03:00

In this part of the video, the speaker explains that hair keratin protein is made up of amino acids connected by peptide bonds. Two polypeptide chains line up to create keratin protein. The chains are connected by side bonds, including hydrogen, salt, and the important disulfide bond, which can only be broken with chemicals. Hydrogen and salt bonds are weak and broken by factors like heat, water, and changes in pH. The disulfide bond is significant in chemical processes and requires chemical intervention to break.

00:06:00

In this segment of the video, the speaker explains the reduction process of perming hair. The process involves breaking salt and hydrogen bonds in the hair, adding hydrogen through a perm solution containing ammonium thioglycolate and ammonia to open the cuticle. The hydrogen then replaces sulfur atoms in disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to be reshaped. Neutralizer, usually hydrogen peroxide, is then applied to remove hydrogen and reform the hair structure, with the sulfur atoms rejoining to create a new wave pattern. The process is likened to a bad breakup that reconciles but is never as strong as before.

00:09:00

In this segment, the speaker discusses the importance of understanding the fragility of hair after breaking disulfide bonds. They explain the process of reducing and oxidizing hair during treatments such as perms and relaxers. Reduction involves adding hydrogen to break disulfide bonds, while oxidation involves introducing oxygen to reform the bonds. For relaxers, a process called lanthionization is used, which removes sulfur atoms through a change in pH. The high pH of relaxers, around 13-14, is highlighted for its significant impact on the hair’s structure.

00:12:00

In this segment of the video, the speaker describes the chemical process of sulfur atoms breaking off amino acids during hair relaxing, leading to damage but necessary for ethnic hair. Disulfide bonds transform into lanthionine bonds when sulfur atoms are lost. The importance of maintaining pH balance to prevent hair breakage is emphasized. Overlapping relaxer applications or mishandling can weaken protein integrity, likened to weakening a ladder’s strength. It is explained that achieving 100% straight hair with a relaxer is not feasible without causing breakage. Normalizing shampoo helps restore pH balance in the hair post-relaxer treatment.

00:15:00

In this segment of the video, it is emphasized that overlapping relaxers or chemical treatments on hair can lead to damage by breaking down disulfide bonds. The use of color or lighteners on relaxed hair should be approached with caution, particularly due to the potential risk of damaging peptide and keratin bonds. The process of relaxation involves a change in pH to break disulfide bonds without rebuilding them, unlike in perms where bonds are rebuilt. It is advised to avoid overlapping treatments and be cautious with chemical processes on relaxed hair to prevent significant damage.