This summary of the video was created by an AI. It might contain some inaccuracies.
00:00:00 – 00:11:26
The video provides a detailed tutorial on replacing the scroll wheel encoder of a Razer DeathAdder V3 Pro mouse, specifically choosing a TTC gold encoder. Essential tools for the task include a Torx T6 and a Phillips number zero screwdriver, a plastic spudger, side cutters, pliers, and a soldering iron. The process starts by removing the bottom half-circle pad to access the screws and carefully disassembling the mouse to expose the PCB. Key steps involve disconnecting cables, desoldering the old encoder, and making modifications to the new encoder for fitting. The creator uses needle-nose pliers to straighten the encoder's legs for easier insertion, ensuring the new encoder is securely soldered onto the PCB. Reassembly focuses on reconnecting cables, securing the PCB, and reattaching the mouse components, resulting in improved scroll wheel performance. The step-by-step guidance emphasizes meticulous handling to avoid damaging the mouse.
00:00:00
In this part of the video, the creator is replacing the scroll wheel encoder on a Razer DeathAdder V3 Pro mouse. They chose a TTC gold encoder but note that any 15 mm encoder will work. Key tools needed include a Torx T6 screwdriver, a tiny Phillips number zero screwdriver, a plastic spudger, side cutters, and pliers. Additionally, basic soldering skills and a soldering iron are necessary. To start the replacement, the bottom half-circle pad of the mouse needs to be removed to access three Torx screws underneath. The creator mentions the pad may not be reusable, so having replacement feet or skates on hand is advised. Once the screws are removed, the mouse can be carefully unclipped and the bottom section slid back to release it from the top shell, taking care to note the short ribbon cable at the front.
00:03:00
In this part of the video, the focus is on disassembling a device and preparing to replace its scroll wheel encoder. Key actions include carefully disconnecting the LED and battery cables, removing the PCB by taking out four securing screws, and detaching the scroll wheel along with the side button ribbon cable. The video demonstrates pulling out the hot swap Optical switches for the left click, and details how to cut excess parts from the encoder before desoldering. The host highlights adding leaded solder to make the desoldering process easier, using a solder sucker tool to clean the holes, and preparing for the installation of the new encoder.
00:06:00
In this part of the video, the creator shares their process of seating an encoder onto a PCB. They encountered difficulties inserting the outside legs of the encoder due to their curved shape, so they used needle-nose pliers to flatten them. Once all the pins were aligned and inserted through the PCB holes, they ensured the encoder was flush against the board before soldering its three pins and two legs. After securing the encoder, the creator reassembled the device by clipping the left click switch back into place and carefully positioning the PCB into the bottom shell, aligning the USB-C port.
00:09:00
In this part of the video, the focus is on reassembling a mouse after replacing the scroll wheel encoder. Key actions include reconnecting the ribbon cable for the side buttons using tweezers, reinstalling the scroll wheel which now feels more tactile and has less play, and securing the PCB with four screws, ensuring they are not overtightened. The battery is plugged back in, and the LED ribbon cable is reconnected before snapping the top and bottom shells together. Finally, the external screws are replaced, and the footer pad is either reattached or replaced, resulting in a significant improvement in the mouse’s performance.